Making crosshatch grill marks

Is there anything handsomer than fish steaks or veal chops neatly crosshatched with grill marks? You will be amazed to know how easy it is to achieve this professional look at home.
Preheat the grill to high and thoroughly clean, preheat, and oil the grate. Place the steaks or chops on the grill, all lined up in the same direction. After 2 minutes, use a spatula or tongs to rotate each piece 45 degrees to make a diagonal crosshatch or 90 degrees to make a square crosshatch. Cook until seared to taste, about 2 minutes more.
Invert the steaks and repeat the procedure on the other side. The exact cooking times will depend on what you’re cooking, the thickness of the steak or chop, and how you like it cooked. 

How to grill a perfect steak

When Americans are polled about their favorite foods for grilling, steak always heads the list. A slab of beef is the perfect food for the grill: Its broad surface area soaks up charcoal and smoke flavors, and its relative thinness allows for quick cooking. The most common mistake made in grilling steak is overcooking it; the second most common is undercooking. Here’s how to do it just right.

1. Pick the right kind of steak. Tender cuts like sirloin, tenderloin, porterhouse, New York strip, and shell steak are the best. Fibrous steaks, like skirt and flank, also taste great grilled-especially when thinly sliced on the diagonal. Save tough cuts like chuck and blade steak for long, slow, moist cooking methods like braising.
2. Some people let the steak come to room temperature before grilling. Most professionals, including myself, don’t bother. If you do cook a room temperature steak, reduce the cooking time slightly.
3. Preheat the grill to high. If cooking a very thick steak (say a strip steak 2 inches thick), build a two-tiered fire. On a gas grill, preheat one side to high, one side to medium-high.
4. Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper. Use a coarse-grained salt, like kosher or sea salt. Coarse grain salt crystals dissolve more slowly than fine table salt, so they hold up better during cooking, and steak pros all over the world use this. I always use freshly ground or freshly cracked black pepper and I apply it generously both before and after grilling. Some people don’t add the salt until after cooking. The salt, they argue, draws out the juices. Believe me, you won’t get much juice loss in the short time it takes to cook a medium-rare steak. And besides, you can’t beat the flavor of salt mixed with caramelized meat juices.
5. Oil the grill grate. The easiest way to do this for steak is to use a piece of steak fat held in tongs or at the end of a carving fork. Rub it over the bars of the grate. An oiled rag or folded up paper towels work fine, too.
6. Place the steaks on the oiled grate, all lined up in the same direction. After 2 minutes, rotate each steak. Normally I rotate 45 degrees. This creates an attractive diamond crosshatch of grill marks on the steak. Sometimes I rotate 90 degrees; this produces a square crosshatch. Cook the steak until beads of blood appear on the surface, 1 to 2 minutes for a steak 1/2 inch thick, 3 to 5 minutes for one 1 inch thick, 6 to 9 minutes for a thickness of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Turn the steak with tongs or a spatula; never use a fork. The holes made by a fork allow the juices to escape.
7. Continue cooking the steaks on the other side, rotating them after 2 minutes. You’ll need slightly less time on the second side. The best test for doneness is feel: Press the top with your index finger. A rare steak will be softly yielding; a medium steak will be firmly yielding; a well-done steak will be firm. Never cut into a steak to test for doneness. This, too, drains the juices.
8. Transfer the steaks to plates or a platter and season again with salt and pepper. At this stage, I like to brush my steaks with extra-virgin olive oil (à la Tuscany) or with melted butter (à la Peter Luger, the Brooklyn steak house). This is optional, but it sure rounds out the flavor.
9. This last step is usually overlooked, but it’s the most important. Let the steaks rest for 2 to 3 minutes before you serve them. This allows the juices to flow back from the center of the meat to the exterior, giving you a moister, juicier steak.

How to Grill the Perfect Whole Chicken

In my estimation, if you really want to cook the perfect whole chicken, you need to equip your grill with a rotisserie.
Why is spit-roasting over or next to an open flame such a perfect way to cook chicken? I have a few theories. First, the slow rotation in front of a live fire provides a gentle, even heat that cooks the legs through without drying out the breast meat. Second, as the bird cooks, the fat under the skin melts, basting the meat continuously. Third, the steady, even exposure to the flame crisps the skin without burning it.

Grilling on a Rotisserie:

1. Start with a good chicken, preferably grain fed, free range, and organic. Remove and discard the fat just inside the body cavities of the chicken. Remove the package of giblets and set aside for another use. Rinse the chicken, inside and out, under cold running water, then drain and blot dry, inside and out, with paper towels.
2. Generously salt and pepper the bird, inside and out. For extra flavor you can put a peeled garlic clove, bay leaf, strip of lemon zest, and/or a sprig of rosemary inside the body and neck cavities. (My editor, Suzanne, inserts slices of garlic under the skin.)
3. Tightly truss the bird, using either butcher’s string and a trussing needle or skewers. Trussing helps the meat cook evenly and it gives the bird an attractive shape for serving.
4. Set up the grill for rotisserie cooking (see page 20). If using charcoal, light 50 to 60 coals and let them burn down until glowing red and covered with a thin coat of ash. Rake one row of coals just in front of the place the chicken will be turning and one row just behind it. Place a drip pan directly under where the chicken will be. If using a gas grill, turn the front and rear burners on high and leave the middle burner off. Put the drip pan in the center.
5. Place the chicken on the spit according to the rotisserie manufacturer’s directions, then set the spit in place on the grill and turn the rotisserie on. Cook, covered if possible, until the chicken skin is gorgeously browned and the flesh is cooked through, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Every 15 minutes or so, baste the rotating bird with the juices that accumulate in the drip pan. When cooked, the bird’s internal temperature will read 180°F on an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the inner muscle of one thigh, not touching the bone. Another test is to pierce the thickest part of the thigh with the tip of a skewer or sharp knife; the juices should run clear. Unspit the chicken and transfer it to a cutting board or platter. Let stand for 5 minutes before carving. Remove the trussing strings (or skewers) and get ready for great eating.

Grilling without a Rotisserie:

You can also make a delicious chicken using the indirect grilling method. As above, you must start with a good chicken and season and truss it.

1. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, placing a drip pan in the center of the grill, under the grate, and preheat to medium. Place the chicken, breast side up, on the hot grate over the drip pan.
2. Cover the grill and cook the chicken until the skin is nicely browned and the meat is cooked through (as determined above), 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Baste the bird with the pan drippings every 20 minutes or so as it cooks. If using a charcoal grill, add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side per hour. Let the chicken stand for 5 minutes before carving and serving.

How to Grill Perfect Chicken Halves and Quarters

Chicken is one of the most popular foods to grill, yet it causes more trouble than any other grilled fare. More often than not, people serve birds that are burnt on the outside and raw in the center. It’s understandable: A halved or quartered chicken with the skin on presents a twofold challenge.
The first problem is that the fat in the skin melts and causes flare-ups. The second problem is that, because it contains bones, chicken takes longer to cook than, say, steaks or burgers. And because of food safety issues, you don’t want to eat chicken anything less than well done.
To cook chicken halves or quarters to perfection, use the two-tiered method, which will enable you to control the heat by moving the birds back and forth over hotter and cooler sections of the grill:

1. If using charcoal: When you build your fire, pile the coals in a double layer on one side of the grill and in a single layer on the other.
   If using a gas grill: Preheat one side to high, the other to medium. In either case, leave yourself plenty of room, so you can move the birds around to avoid flare-ups. Season the chicken pieces with salt, pepper, or any other seasonings you plan to use.
2. After oiling the grill grate, place the pieces, skin side down, on the hotter section of the grill. Cook until the skin starts to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Move the pieces to the cooler section of the grill and continue grilling until the skin is thoroughly browned, 5 to 7 minutes more. Watch carefully and use tongs to move the pieces away from flare-ups.
3. Turn the pieces and move them back to the hotter section of the grill. Brown the second side well (3 to 5 minutes), then move the pieces back to the cooler side of the grill to finish cooking. The total cooking time will be 16 to 24 minutes. When ready, the chicken will be crisp and golden-brown outside and the juices will run clear when the meat is pierced. If the recipe calls for basting and you are using an oil- or wine-based marinade, you can brush the chicken continuously.
4. If using a sugar-based marinade, start brushing it on during the last 5 minutes of grilling.

Bird without Flames:

You can avoid the risk of flare-ups entirely by grilling halved or quartered chickens using the indirect method. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, placing a drip pan in the center, under the grate, and preheat to medium. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Place the chicken pieces, skin side down, on the hot grate, over the pan. Cover the grill and cook until the juices run clear, about 40 minutes for halved birds, 30 to 40 minutes for chicken quarters. (In general, breast pieces require less cooking time than leg pieces.) The advantage of this method is that it’s absolutely fail proof; the disadvantage is that the bird will lack the charred flavor you get cooking over direct flames.

How to Grill Perfect Vegetables Every Time

In general, vegetables benefit from a direct, high-heat grilling method. The exceptions are dense root vegetables, like potatoes and turnips, that are best cooked by the indirect method or by parboiling and finishing over the fire.

Asparagus, okra, green beans, and other long, skinny, fibrous vegetables: Snap or cut off the ends of the vegetables and lay 4 to 6 vegetables side by side on a work surface. Skewer them crosswise with slender bamboo skewers. Brush with olive oil or sesame oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat until nicely browned on both sides. Cook asparagus 6 to 8 minutes in all. Okra cook in 8 to 10 minutes, green beans, too, in 8 to 10 minutes. Scallions need a total time of 4 to 8 minutes.

Corn: There are two schools of thought on this one. The easiest way is simply to toss unshucked ears on the grill and cook over high heat until the husks are completely charred. Scrape off the charred husks with paper towels (the silk will come off with them). You’ll need about 15 to 18 minutes in all. The corn will be sweet and mildly smoky.

My favorite way to grill corn is to start with shucked ears, which I generously brush with melted butter or olive oil and generously season with salt and pepper. I grill the corn over high heat, directly over the flames, until the kernels are darkly browned and starting to pop. This will take 8 to 12 minutes in all. The advantage of this method is that the corn acquires a wonderful smoke flavor.

Eggplants: Choose eggplants that are long and slender. Preheat the grill to high. Grill the eggplant until the skin is black and charred on all sides and the flesh is soft. (Test it by gently poking the top.) You’re supposed to burn the skin; that’s what gives the eggplant its smoky flavor. Turn the eggplant with tongs as it cooks: The whole process will take 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer the eggplant to a plate and let cool, then scrape off the charred skin. (You don’t have to remove all the burnt pieces; they add a terrific flavor.) The eggplant is now ready for chopping to make salads or puréeing to make dips.

Note that some recipes in this book call for Asian eggplants, which are about 1 inch in diameter and about 6 inches long. They cook in 9 to 12 minutes.

Mushrooms: Mushrooms tend to get somewhat dry if grilled plain, so it’s best to marinate them for a few hours in an oil-based marinade or slather them with an herb or flavored butter during grilling. Thread small mushrooms on skewers so that they lie flat on the grill grate, for easy grilling and turning. Grill over high heat. Cook 3 to 6 minutes per side (6 to 12 minutes in all). When grilling Portobello, cook cap side down first, then invert. Cook Portobello 4 to 6 minutes per side (8 to 12 minutes in all). Grill stuffed mushroom caps, rounded side down, 15 to 20 minutes, using the indirect method. All mushrooms should be generously basted as they cook.

Onions: Cut onions in quarters, but leave the root intact on each piece. Peel back the skin to the root end. (The root holds the onion together during cooking.) Brush the onion quarters with oil or melted butter. Grill over a high flame until nicely charred on the outside and cooked through, turning to ensure even cooking. You’ll need 10 to 12 minutes in all. Scrape off the burnt skin before serving.

Peppers (this works for both bell peppers and chili peppers): Choose peppers that are rotund and smooth, with relatively few depressions or crevasses. Preheat the grill to high. Place the whole peppers on the grill and cook until darkly charred on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes per side (16 to 20 minutes in all) for larger peppers; the smaller chilies will take less time. Don’t forget to grill the top and bottom; if necessary, hold the peppers with tongs if they won’t balance properly on either end. This is another food you’re supposed to burn. Transfer the grilled peppers to a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap or place in a closed paper or plastic bag. This creates steam, which makes it easy to remove the skin. When the pepper is cool enough to handle, scrape off the skin with a paring knife. Cut out the stem and remove the seeds.

Another way to grill peppers is to brush them lightly with olive oil and grill until nicely browned but not burnt. In this case, you wouldn’t bother peeling the peppers.

Radicchio or kale and other leafy vegetables: Cut radicchio in quarters, wedges, or thick slices. Grill kale leaves whole. Grill over high heat until the leaves start to brown. Cook 2 to 4 minutes per side. Watch carefully; do not allow the leaves to burn to a crisp.

Tomatos: Thread small or plum tomatoes on a wide, flat skewer and grill over high heat, turning, until the skins are browned and blistered all over. Grill individual tomatoes the same way, turning with tongs. To grill really large tomatoes (such as beefsteaks), cut them crosswise into 1-inch-thick slices. Brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill over high heat. Cook small or plum tomatoes 8 to 12 minutes in all. Larger, whole tomatoes take twice as long, and tomato slices take 2 to 4 minutes per side.

Zucchini and summer squash: Cut the vegetables lengthwise into 1/4-or 1/2-inch-thick slices. Brush each side with olive oil or walnut oil. Season with salt and pepper and grill over high heat. Cook 4 to 6 minutes per side.

Tips on Grilling Vegetables:

• You know the scenario: You love grilled vegetables, but as you go to turn those mushrooms, scallions, and onion wedges sizzling away on the grill, they fall between the bars of the grate into the fire.

• To avoid this problem, savvy grill buffs use a vegetable grate-an auxiliary grate that goes on top of the main grate. Often made of porcelain- or Teflon-coated metal, the vegetable grate has small holes that allow the flames and smoke flavor to reach the vegetables but keep them from falling into the fire.

• A variation on the vegetable grate is the vegetable basket, a hinged wire basket into which you can put loose mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, summer squash and zucchini slices, and other small pieces of vegetables. Instead of trying to turn each piece on the grill grate, you simply invert the basket.

• Vegetable grates and baskets are sold at cookware shops and via mail order. If you use one, you should preheat it on the regular grill grate for about 5 minutes before adding the vegetables.

• Barbecue buffs are divided on whether or not to oil the grate-regular or vegetable-before grilling vegetables. Vegetables don’t tend to stick to the bars of the grate as much as meats and seafood do (it’s the proteins in the latter that do the sticking). But if you want the better grill marks that oiling the grate gives you, and if you feel it’s better to be safe than sorry, go ahead and oil your grate right before grilling-after it has been preheated.

• And please do not feel that you can’t grill vegetables if you don’t have a vegetable grate. I traveled the barbecue train on five continents and only on one-North America-did I find cooks using vegetable grates.